Anterivo Lupine
Among the coffee substitutes found in Italian peasant tradition is a particularly unusual one prepared with the seeds of lupine (Lupinus pilosus) from Anterivo, up in the mountains in the Val di Fiemme, within the Monte Corno nature park, where small plots of crops are surrounded by wide green meadows.
The lupine cultivated in Anterivo is an annual legume with an upright stem that can reach up to 120 centimeters in height. It has pronounced lateral branching and its leaves are palmate, each consisting of between nine and twelve silky, velvety leaflets on both sides. The stunning blue flowers, speckled with yellow-white and occasionally pink spots, are clustered in racemes. During their peak blooming period, they transform the fields into an expanse of blue. The pods, covered in soft fuzz, contain two to four relatively large seeds with a rough surface, mottled in different shades of brown.
The seeds are picked in July and August then left to dry in the sun before being roasted and ground into a powder with scents of roasted hazelnut and cacao. Infused in boiling water for 5 to 8 minutes, it produces a dark, fragrant beverage with a pleasant taste, subtly bitter and acidic.
This “Anterivo coffee” (“Altreier Kaffee” in German) is an integral part of the collective memory of the town’s inhabitants and boasts a tradition spanning more than a century. Alongside potatoes, cabbage, herbs and medicinal plants, this variety of lupine has always been a staple in the kitchen gardens of Anterivo. The oldest document mentioning its cultivation dates back to 1887, a biography of Prince-Bishop Johann Baptist Zwerger, who was born in Anterivo and served as bishop in Graz-Seckau, Austria. In his memoirs, he wrote that this legume, known locally as “Anterivo coffee,” allowed “even the poorest to earn a small income.”
The powder, being lightweight, was easily transported by women who traveled on foot to nearby areas such as Bassa Atesina, Cavalese and Capriana to sell it, thereby supplementing their income. While the infusion was mainly consumed at home, it was also known for its digestive properties and was even given to livestock.
These days it is no longer used just as a beverage but also to season meat dishes and as a flavoring for grappa, beer, chocolate, ice cream and other sweets.
Season
Lupin is harvested between July and August. The product resulting from its roasting and milling and the related processed products are available throughout the year.
The Presidium wants to increase and promote the production of this unusual product, encouraging its presence in restaurants and on the regional, national and international market and the revival of its cultivation in the plots of young farming families.
Presidium supported by
Monte Corno Anterivo-San Lugano-Trodena Nature Park Tourism Association
Tel. 333 5312643
info@altreierkaffee.it
www.altreierkaffee.it
Ground and roasted lupin can be purchased at the sales outlets of the Famiglia Cooperativa di Cavalese Soc. Cop., especially at the branch in:
Anterivo,
Piazza Municipio, 1
Tel. 0471 882533
commerciale@coopcavalese.it
www.coopcavalese.it
Adam Givani
Tel. 347 4923686
adam.givani@dnet.it
Slow Food contact person
Angelo Carrillo
Tel. 339 8189965
angelo.carrillo@aol.com


