Squartone is the local name for pigo (Rutilus pigus), a fish from the carp family (Cyprinidae) that lives in the calm, deep waters of lakes and rivers in Northern Italy. It has a stocky body and a very small head. Its back is greenish and its scales are edged with a darker hue that tends towards golden yellow on the sides. Is belly is silver and its fins are gray. Squartone meat is greatly appreciated, which is not the case for most other fish from the same family.
Once caught, the squartone is processed using a traditional method that allows it to be conserved. First, the fish is scaled and gutted. Then it is washed, placed in a brine solution, and hung to allow it to dry slightly. In some cases, the squartone is placed under a wooden press to gradually remove the fat. It is preserved in a tin, under a layer of oil and with bay leaves, for 60 to 90 days. The final product has a semi-hard consistency and a sweet flavor, with a bit of sourness. The smell is very intense and aromatic. It is produced in around lakes Como (also known as Lario), Iseo, and Garda, where this fish is found.
The traditional method for serving squartone is to slice it finely and eat it as a second course with a plate of polenta. It is also used as a sauce for first courses, grilled over a bed of coals, or served on a slice of toasted bread or fried polenta.
In the last 15 years, the population of squartone has decreased by more than half due to the introduction of non-native species, the construction of dams that block its reproductive migrations, and, most of all, because of water pollution.
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