Upper Tiber Valley Smoked Vino Santo

Italy

Umbria

Wines and grape varietals

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Upper Tiber Valley Smoked Vino Santo

The production of vino santo, a sweet wine made from raisined grapes, is traditional in all of Tuscany and Umbria’s wine-producing areas. But in the upper Tiber Valley, around Città di Castello, over the centuries the local families developed a technique that makes their wine unique. The bunches of grapes (singly or tied together in pairs called coppiole) are dried in rooms filled with smoke from fireplaces or stoves, giving the final wine a distinct smoky note. Historically the bunches would be hung from the kitchen ceiling, allowing the smoke from the hearth to permeate the grapes, but in the 19th century this tradition became intertwined with an activity on the rise at the time: tobacco production.
The wine producers would arrange their grapes in the rooms used for drying the tobacco leaves, exposing them to the fire and smoke produced by large wood-burning stoves. The link between the two products did not end there: When the farmers dug up the tins where they had stored some tobacco to hide it from the government monopoly, they would soften the leaves by sprinkling them with vinosanto. And the tradition of dipping a Tuscan cigar in vinosanto before smoking continues today.
The grapes used are trebbiano, malvasia, grechetto, cannaiolo, vernaccia and san colombano, all picked before they become too ripe, so that the grape skins are still thick and resistant. The drying lasts at least three or four months, until December or January. The bunches are then destemmed and pressed and the must left to ferment in wooden barrels with the natural yeasts kept by every family. The barrels are stored in well-ventilated rooms, where they are subject to seasonal variations in temperature. Time does the rest, and after at least three years the end result is a sweet wine with notes of dried fruit and chestnut honey and an unmistakable hint of smoke evoking cigar tobacco.

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Season

The product is available all year round

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Many small vineyards still survive alongside farmers’ houses. The families who have preserved barrels, sometimes centuries old, and natural yeasts passed down from their ancestors, continue to produce smoked vinosanto, primarily for its sentimental value.
The Presidium wants to convince more small-scale winegrowers to revive production on a larger scale, returning this traditional wine to the market. It could represent an interesting supplement to farming activities in the Tiber Valley, an area where the crops that were profitable in recent decades—primarily fruit and tobacco—have gradually been abandoned.

Production area

Upper Tiber Valley, Perugia province
Romana Ballini
Monte Santa Maria Tiberina (Pg)
Tel. +39 335 6055944

Giancarlo Bettacchioli
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Morra
Tel. +39 335 8292567

Eugenio Bistarelli
Citerna (Pg)
Località Rosciaro-Pistrino
Tel. +39 338 8526456

Luca e Moreno Ceccagnoli
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Trestina
Tel. +39 339 4378270

Chiara Filippi
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località San Secondo
Tel. +39 0758 540784 - 347 6140798

Maurizio Franchi
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Morra
Tel. +39 339 3148535

Nicolò Marchetti
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Lugnano
Tel. +39 335 7802602

Piero Montanucci
Umbertide (Pg)
Località Calzolaro
Tel. +39 0758 553380 - 335 292092

Enrico Nardoni
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località San Secondo
Tel. +39 0758 578248 - 320 7169475

Giovanni Orlandi
Umbertide (Pg)
Località San Benedetto
Tel. +39 0759 411403

Licio Poesini
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Morra
Tel. +39 338 3148535

Fausto Squarcetti
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Morra
Tel. +39 339 3851630

Ed inoltre
Fausto Brigati e Dino Spapperi di San Secondo, Luca Guerri di Trevine, Terzilio Poesini di Morra, tutti nel comune di Citta di Castello
Slow Food Presidium Coordinator
Sergio Consigli
tel. +39 388 8461279
consiglisergio@libero.it

Presidium Producers’ Coordinator
Claudio Ceccarelli
tel. +39 335 6820291
c.ceccarelli67@gmail.com
Many small vineyards still survive alongside farmers’ houses. The families who have preserved barrels, sometimes centuries old, and natural yeasts passed down from their ancestors, continue to produce smoked vinosanto, primarily for its sentimental value.
The Presidium wants to convince more small-scale winegrowers to revive production on a larger scale, returning this traditional wine to the market. It could represent an interesting supplement to farming activities in the Tiber Valley, an area where the crops that were profitable in recent decades—primarily fruit and tobacco—have gradually been abandoned.

Production area

Upper Tiber Valley, Perugia province
Romana Ballini
Monte Santa Maria Tiberina (Pg)
Tel. +39 335 6055944

Giancarlo Bettacchioli
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Morra
Tel. +39 335 8292567

Eugenio Bistarelli
Citerna (Pg)
Località Rosciaro-Pistrino
Tel. +39 338 8526456

Luca e Moreno Ceccagnoli
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Trestina
Tel. +39 339 4378270

Chiara Filippi
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località San Secondo
Tel. +39 0758 540784 - 347 6140798

Maurizio Franchi
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Morra
Tel. +39 339 3148535

Nicolò Marchetti
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Lugnano
Tel. +39 335 7802602

Piero Montanucci
Umbertide (Pg)
Località Calzolaro
Tel. +39 0758 553380 - 335 292092

Enrico Nardoni
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località San Secondo
Tel. +39 0758 578248 - 320 7169475

Giovanni Orlandi
Umbertide (Pg)
Località San Benedetto
Tel. +39 0759 411403

Licio Poesini
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Morra
Tel. +39 338 3148535

Fausto Squarcetti
Città di Castello (Pg)
Località Morra
Tel. +39 339 3851630

Ed inoltre
Fausto Brigati e Dino Spapperi di San Secondo, Luca Guerri di Trevine, Terzilio Poesini di Morra, tutti nel comune di Citta di Castello
Slow Food Presidium Coordinator
Sergio Consigli
tel. +39 388 8461279
consiglisergio@libero.it

Presidium Producers’ Coordinator
Claudio Ceccarelli
tel. +39 335 6820291
c.ceccarelli67@gmail.com

Territory

StateItaly
RegionUmbria

Other info

CategoriesWines and grape varietals