Haute-Provence Einkorn

For thousands of years, the history of einkorn (Triticum monococcum) has been closely linked to that of the Mediterranean. Until Roman times, this cereal was widely eaten, but later it was almost totally replaced by common and durum wheat (Triticum aestivum and T. durum) which ousted the various minor cereals, due to their higher yields and the fact that they needed no processing. As einkorn has a hull, it must always be decorticated (with a similar technique to that used for rice). For a decade or so, einkorn has enjoyed renewed interest, thanks to its rusticity, which allows it to adapt to dry climates and poor soil, and to its nutritional and sensory qualities: it is energy-dense, rich in protein, has twice the lipid content of ordinary wheat, and is easily digested due to its high fiber content. It also contains very little gluten. Haute-Provence Einkorn (or petit épeautre in French) is a local plant, traced back to 9,000 BC, and presumed to have arrived from the western coast of what is now Turkey. Today some 30 producers in the Haute-Provence, with fields spread around 235 municipalities at an elevation over 400 meters, have formed an association in order to defend and promote this special grain, which obtained PGI (protected geographical indication) status in April 2010. Haute-Provence Einkorn, which is particularly well adapted to the variable, uncertain climate of the region, is planted alongside, and often rotated with, lavender and legumes. Its versatility more than compensates for its long growth cycle (about 11 months) and comparatively low yields. This grain is excellent in simple preparations: for example, it can be boiled for 35 minutes, rested for 10 minutes, drained, mixed with tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers, seasoned with lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil, allowed it to chill in the fridge for several hours, and then served it with a garnish of mint leaves.