Beneventano Saragolla Bread

Saragolla is an heirloom variety of durum wheat, still cultivated in the inland areas of the Sannio, in the province of Benevento. It was introduced to Italy from the Middle East in 400 AD by people arriving from what is now Bulgaria. The variety’s name comes from that language group, from the union of sarga (“seed”) and golyo (“yellow”). Various historic documents, some dating back to the Middle Ages, refer to Saragolla and mention its quality and its hardiness (the variety is particularly resistant to lodging and to diseases like rust). Over time, it developed slightly different characteristics depending on the cultivation area, leading to a population of Saragolla formed of several different types: Zingaresca, Bulgara, Saragolla Turchesco, Bulgara di Capo Palinuro and Saragolletta del Sannio.
The wheat produces a fragrant flour, bright yellow in color, which is used to make a traditional bread. The semolina flour is mixed with a sourdough starter (passed down through generations of bakers), and the mixture is kept warm overnight before being mixed with more flour, water, leavening and salt. The second rising lasts for around three to four hours. The dough is then formed into round loaves and the tops are cut across before the bread is baked in a wood-burning oven. The crust is thin and brown with darker patches and lightly floured. The crumb is dense and yellowish-beige in color, with small, regular holes and an elastic, moist texture. On the nose, the fragrance is intense, with notes of dried fruit, toast and honey. The flavor tends to be quite sweet, but has a good sapidity. The bread’s many uses include in bread soup, for bruschetta and for sampling newly produced extra-virgin olive oil from the Sannite area.

Season

The bread is baked weekly throughout the year