Until a few decades ago virtually every farm in Piedmont bred ducks, geese, rabbits, and chickens. Small barnyard animals such as these were mostly intended for family consumption, but could also be sold to supplement modest household incomes. Many sources point to the historical importance of poultry in the region. The traditional chicken breeds, raised for both eggs and meat, were the bianca di Saluzzo (“Saluzzo white”) and the bionda Piemontese (“Piedmontese blonde”).
The bionda Piemontese (also known as the bionda di Cuneo, bionda di Villanova, rossa delle Crivelle, or nostralina) is buff colored or golden, with a red comb and wattle, a yellow beak, and yellow feet. The tail feathers are often darker, ranging from gray to metallic black or dark blue. This rustic breed is medium sized, usually reaching a live weight of about 2.5 kilograms (cocks often weigh closer to 3 kg). Its eggs are brown. The bionda Piemontese used to be a popular breed throughout Piedmont, and especially in Cuneo Province.
In the 1960s the introduction of industrial poultry breeding and, especially in the plains around Saluzzo, intensive agriculture supplanted the traditional chicken breeds, which are suitable only for pasture raising. Efforts to recover the bionda Piemontese began in the late 90s and the Federazione Italiana Associazioni Avicole (federation of Italian poultry associations) approved a breed standard, but the breed’s population remains small. Luckily, because they appreciate its hardiness and suitability for free-range management, local farmers have kept this traditional breed relatively pure, despite the introduction of commercial breeds to the area.
In osterias throughout southwestern Piedmont chicken alla cacciatora (“hunter style”) remains a popular dish. It is prepared by sautéing small pieces of chicken with herbs, white wine, onion, and tomato. The resulting sauce is an excellent seasoning for polenta. Gallina lessa (“boiled hen”) is another important regional dish. It can be served in its own broth, in gelatin, or in salad.
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