Well into the 1800s, most farmsteads in the northeastern United States had at least a few apple trees (Malus domestica), of various different varieties: Some fruited early, others late; some produced apples that could be stored and eaten the following spring, when perfectly ripe; some were excellent for drying or turning into jelly; and many were used to make cider, primarily hard (alcoholic), but also sweet. Cider was a particularly important beverage because it stored more easily than, for example, milk, and was often safer to drink than water. At the beginning of the 20th century, there were more than 7,000 apple varieties in the United States. To this day, old apple trees, either single or in small stands, can still be found along country roads or on farms in the Northeast. Russet apples are varieties that exhibit russeting: This term refers to partial or complete coverage with rough skin that is usually greenish-brown or yellowish-brown. Russeting is primarily associated with older varieties, prized for being highly aromatic and having distinct flavors. The Golden Russet is thought to have originated in New York State in the early 1800s, though its history may stretch back into the 1700s. It developed from an English variety (many English varieties adapted well to the climate of the northeastern US) and is also called the English Golden Russet, but should not be confused with the variety known as the English Russet.
The Golden Russet is usually grafted on semi-dwarf rootstock, so the trees are about 4 meters high by 4 meters wide. It has good resistance to scab and rust. Because the Golden Russet is not a self-fertile variety, it must be planted alongside trees of other varieties. The trees’ white blossoms appear in spring and, in New York State and New England, harvest takes place in about mid-October. The apples themselves are small to medium in size, and wider than they are tall. The dull, rough skin ripens from greenish-brown to golden yellow, sometimes with an orange blush on the side exposed to the sun. The flesh is white or cream colored, fine grained, and very firm and crisp. This variety is appreciated for its complex flavors: It is sweet but with good acidity, slightly spicy, and has a hint of nuttiness. Some describe is as recalling the taste of pear, fig, or apricot, and the skin of unripe apples tastes of green pepper. In addition eating it fresh, the Golden Russet is good for drying, cooking (it doesn’t become mushy), and turning into sweet and hard cider. The apples can be stored for several months as long as they are kept in a humid place (the large pores associated with russeting allow moisture to escape, causing the flesh to become dry and mealy if not properly stored), and are best as a dessert apple between December and April.
The temperance movement, which began in earnest in the 1820s, led to a decline in cider apple trees and varieties, both because of the decreased demand for hard cider and the intentional destruction of trees. A century later, prohibition furthered the decline of cider apples, and commercial apple production shifted to sweet varieties intended for fresh eating. Over the course of the 20th century, the number of apple varieties in the United States continued to shrink, and emphasis was placed on physical appearance, which was bad news for all of the russet varieties—shiny, even-colored red apples became the norm, and even now just a handful of varieties dominate the market. Fortunately, there is renewed interest in old apple varieties, thanks in part to the growing craft cider movement. Though still not a commercial variety, Golden Russet apples are available in farmers’ markets and some specialty stores in the northeastern US and the Upper Midwest. This variety deserves attention for its versatility, incredible flavor, and historical importance.
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