Chilhuacle

Chilhuacle or chile huacle is a variety of Capsicum annuum, a domesticated species of the Capsicum plant genus native to southern North America and northern South America. Chilhuacle is endemic to La Cañada in Oaxaca, a fertile region with a warm and mild climate. Today it remains the only area of Mexico where chilhuacle is cultivated, and the crop continues to be grown on small plots using traditional agricultural practices mixed with some modern practices. The chilhuacle plant has straight stems, dark green oval leaves and white flowers. The fruit are trapezoidal in shape, with a smooth texture, and start out as a bright green color that changes as they mature. The mature fruit can be black (a deep brown), red or yellow according to the three varieties: chilhuacle negro, chilhuacle rojo and chilhuacle amarillo. The color difference is not the result of leaving the fruit for different maturation stages as with some peppers, but depends specifically on the type. Today chilhuacle is grown in small quantities, predominantly in the San Juan Bautista Cuicatlán municipality of Oaxaca by the Cuicatecos and Chinatecos Indigenous peoples who inhabit the region. The total area dedicated to cultivating the chili is not greater than 10 hectares with yields ranging from 500 to 1,000 kg of dried peppers per hectare. The cultivation of chilhuacle is also threatened by viral diseases that have been known to wipe out an entire harvest. Given the high risk and production costs, producers are reducing the amount of land dedicated to this crop. Chilhuacle is sold across the state of Oaxaca and can be found in most traditional town markets. It fetches around 400 pesos per kilogram when sold directly from production centers and 500 to 700 on the local market. Chilhuacle is used both fresh and dried, and is considered by the Oaxacan people as the most important chili of the region and a crucial element of Oaxacan gastronomy. The peppers are dried in the traditional way, by laying them out on the rocky hillsides under direct sunlight, which contributes to their unique flavor characteristics. In its fresh form, chilhuacle is used to prepare chile caldo and chile relleno. The dried chili are the star of the seven moles of Oaxaca: black chilhuacle is used to prepare the famous mole negro and chichilo; red chilhuacle is used for mole rojo and manchamanteles; and yellow chilhuacle for mole amarillo. It is also an important ingredient of other local dishes across La Cañada region, such as chanfaina, turkey with chili and chili ribs. Oaxaca is known for its great cultural traditions, in particular its strong culinary culture. Black mole is one of the most popular dishes across the region and is prepared for festivities to honor the ‘faithfully departed’ and the mayordomías to celebrate patron saints. Black mole has also become a popular Mexican dish nationally and internationally, making the chilhuacle known to the world. Letting this chili disappear from local agricultural production would be devastating for the Oaxacan cuisine and Mexician cuisine in general. More than just a variety or ingredient, it is deeply tied to the cultural heritage of the people. Action must be taken to ensure local producers are supported to continue producing it.