On the Amalfi coast, the lemon is more than a simple fruit: For at least three centuries, it has been central to the local agriculture and is a fundamental element of the landscape. The green and gold of the lemon groves are the dominant colors of the coast, and countless buildings and terraces are devoted to the production of lemons. Lemon cultivation is vital for the preservation of the local hydrogeological system: The terraces and canals control the flow of rain and spring water. Amalfi is home to many lemon varieties, patiently selected over the centuries by the local farmers. They include the sfusato di Amalfi, gloria di Amalfi, Maiori, ovale di Sorrento, and Procida.
Amalfi lemons, particularly the sfusato, are distinctive for their high concentration of aromatic substances (essential oils and terpenes), in some cases twice as high as for more common varieties. The sfusato has an elongated shape and very pale yellow skin. It’s pulp is juicy and acidic, with few seeds. It has always played an important role in the local gastronomy, especially in the preparation of sweets and ice creams, and it yields outstanding results when used for making limoncello.
The Amalfi sfusato, derived from the Femminello comune variety, dates back to the Roman empire. Images of lemon trees very similar to the Sfusato variety appear in the ruins of the Casa del Frutteto in Pompei. Despite this impressive heritage, the cultivation of Amalfi lemons is in crisis for a number of reasons, including high production costs that low market prices cannot offset, competition from huge Sicilian plantations, and difficulty recruiting qualified workers.
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