Altai salted mushrooms

Соленые грузди по-алтайски

The traditional method for salting milk-cap mushrooms (and sometimes other wild mushrooms as well) is used mostly in the Altai Republic.

The recipe requires a cedar wood barrel and a flat cover, also wooden, whose diameter is slightly less than the barrel’s, so it fits in nicely. Before the salting, the barrel is filled with boiling water, birch branches, absinthe and mint are added, and then it is scraped with knives.

The fresh-picked mushrooms are left to steep for 1-2 days in cold water and salt (970 ml of water to 30 gr of salt) in a cool place, changing the water at least twice a day. Afterwards the bottom of the barrel is sprinkled with salt and covered with currant leaves and branches, and dried, ripened dill stalks (over time cherry leaves have also been added to the recipe). The mushrooms are arranged in the barrel with the cap down, in a layer at least 6cm deep. Medium-size salt crystals (50 gr of salt to 1kg of mushrooms) are spread over each layer, along with garlic cloves and whole allspice.

The barrel is filled so there is an 8-10cm empty space from the top. More current leaves and dill are added on top. All of this is then covered with a double or triple layer of cloth or muslin, and the wooden cover is set on top with a weight on it (a chunk of granite). After a few days, the level of mushrooms will have dropped. In the space created, more fresh mushrooms are added. After topping up a second time, it has to stay put for 5-6 days, checking that there is enough brine. In case the brine is too little, more weight needs to be added to increase the pressure. Last of all, the barrel needs to be moved to a cool place away from light. Ideally, the barrel is set on a layer of ice in a cellar. The mushrooms are ready to used within a month or month and a half.

This mushroom salting method is used more and more rarely for a series of reasons. In the past, mushrooms were important in the diet, and plenty were prepared for the winter season, both under salt and dried. Today the local population has no desire to dedicate itself to such a tiring procedure, preferring to buy it on sale. Also, the habit of using enamel containers has entered the picture because they are simpler and easier to use, but they also change the flavour of the mushrooms. The product gets its unique fragrance and special taste from being salted in cedar wood containers.

Salted milk-caps appear among the ingredients of salads and vegetable soups, they are used to prepare mushroom pâtés and starters, or they can be eaten with fried or boiled potatoes.